While in Mexico on my surf trip we went surfing a ton. When we first got there we geared up and headed straight to the beach break right out front of our house. The waves were about 3-5 ft and were steadily coming in. We charged through the white water to the line-up and once we got there we hung out waiting for a wave with some shape that we could ride for a bit. Occasionally an even bigger outside wave would approach and we would all paddle our hearts out to get over it. Often it would petter out and then reform again closer to shore. We each caught a couple waves and then decided to head in for some burgers at the other house.
The next morning we woke up early and headed out again. The waves were a little smaller, 2-3 ft and it was probably the best surf session of the trip. The wind hadn’t started up yet and most of the sets had some nice shape to them where you could catch a little corner either breaking left or right. We stayed out for a long time and our other trip buddies joined up with us as we drifted north, closer and closer to their set of stairs. We each caught several waves and hunger started to call our names back to the house for breakfast.
We had heard the guys talking about a point break far off at a house that you could see from our beach break that they surfed the following day and that morning so we decided to take a walk south to check it out in the early afternoon. We walked the long tedious trek over sand, small round rocks, and volcanic boulders to arrive at the point break. It was a beautiful break that reminded me of Malibu, a slow mushy wave that goes right and rarely closes out in front of you. It was quite shallow at low tide and looked very treacherous and difficult to get out into the line-up. You had to either walk and paddle over sharp rocks or carry your board across volcanic rock and carefully time a jump into the line-up. On top of that, we couldn’t figure out how you got out of the water after you were in surfing. You couldn’t go back the way you went in. It would be too hard. (Later we learned there are stairs to walk up further down along the beach.)
Since the tide was so low we decided to walk back and have another little afternoon session at our beach break. We padded out, but the waves were mainly walled up and closing out too fast to get a good ride in. Instead we spent a little time just catching white water rides to the beach.
The following morning we had one more surf session at our beach break again. The waves were big again, 3-5 ft and didn’t have great shape. As the morning progressed I watched the waves from the white water get larger and larger and close out faster and faster. Occasionally they would form up again on the inside and I would be in the right place for a short green ride to the beach. Eventually we called it a day and headed in for some breakfast and packing to leave our beautiful oceanside paradise.
Next time, I plan to be confident enough to try my hand at the point break as that looked like the best place to surf within walking distance from our house. Gotta get out and surf more and now!